5
Grooming and make-up
Fayum mummy portrait,
250, discovered at Thebes, encaustic on wood, 33 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. © 2007 Louvre Museum/Georges Poncet
Fayum mummy portrait,
circa 150–200, discovered at Thebes, encaustic on wood, 33 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. © 2007 Louvre Museum/Georges Poncet
Statuette of a bearded figure,
circa 1700 BCE, bronze, 28 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Mathieu Rabeau

When it comes to appearances, norms (rules of society) evolve according to periods and cultures.

 

Styles that were once considered “masculine” or “feminine” can be inverted and evolve over periods of time and from culture to culture.


Take a look at these images! You’ll notice that both the man and woman are wearing make-up and have groomed eyebrows.  The male statue has long hair.

Indeed, grooming and make-up aren’t just for women.

 

In the Arab world, men in the 16th century used vegetable gums to remove hair. Whereas, in the West, hair was a sign of strength and virility, so hair removal was reserved for women!

 

 

Discover here some toiletry items from the Mediterranean region, which could be used by both women and men.

Mirror with handle from the Boscoreale Treasure representing Leda and the Swan,
between 25 BCE and 50, silver, 29 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Hervé Lewandowski
Flat-rimmed kohl pot with stick,
between 2033 and 1540 BCE, discovered in Sudan, wood, 4.5 cm (height of the pot), 9 cm (length of the stick), Lille Palace of Fine Arts. Photo (C) RMN-Grand Palais (PFA, Lille)/Stéphane Maréchalle
Make-up box in the shape of a duck,
between 1550 and 1150 BCE, discovered in Egypt, ivory, 13 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Mathieu Rabeau
Make-up spoon with swimmer,
between 1390 and 1352 BCE, wood, 30 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © Louvre Museum, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Christian Décamps
In a nutshell

Gender norms vary across cultures and evolve over time. Grooming and make-up were never exclusive to women.

4
The Virago Archetype
So what of women who affirm their power?

There were those who didn’t always seek to please others in the past…

 

And there’s a demeaning term to refer to them: “virago” (from the Latin “vir”, meaning man). A virago is a woman who has qualities that society has typically considered masculine, such as strength and courage.

 

 

Dish with a lady firing a bow at a young man,
circa 1450, earthenware, 40 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo (C) RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Jean-Gilles Berizzi
The Edinburgh Painter, Amphora with black figures, Heracles with the Amazons,
early 5th century, ceramic, 23 x 15 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo (C) RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Stéphane Maréchalle
The Sotades Painter, Fragment of ryhton representing an Amazonomachy,
between 460 and 450 BCE, ceramic, 5 x 11 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo: Photo (C) RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Hervé Lewandowski
Campana plaque (detail),
between 50 BCE and 50, made in Italy, clay, 32 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo: (C) 2009 Louvre Museum/Anne Chauvet

 

In Greek mythology, for example, the Amazons carry weapons and fight! But these women warriors were looked down upon for their combative qualities. In works by ancient authors, they symbolise chaos. Their death, therefore, restores order and harmony…

 

There is a long way to go before women are free of historical stereotypes, but as for the Amazons, they’ve become heroines of the big screen!

 

Wonder Woman (clip), 2017, directed by Patty Jenkins

 

In a nutshell

Characteristics deemed ‘masculine’ or ‘feminine’ have been socially constructed. Despite gender stereotypes, women have always shown strength and courage throughout history.

3
Focus on a woman of power
Bust of Queen Sobekneferu,
between 1789 and 1786 BCE, sandstone, 48 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © Louvre Museum, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Georges Poncet

Cleopatra wasn’t the only woman to reign over Egypt! The first female pharaoh was Neferusobek.

 

Her statue has suffered the ravages of time but there are clues about how the pharaoh chose to be represented. She wears:
 

 

 

 

 

By adopting insignia previously reserved for men, Neferusobek sought to show that she was their equal.

In a nutshell

The first female pharaoh, Neferusobek, combined masculine and feminine clothing and insignia to give legitimacy to her power.

2
Women and power
Unfortunately, there are many misconceptions about the history of women.

For instance, you would be wrong to think that there were no women in power before the 20th century. Female leaders can be found in the highest positions of responsibility everywhere and in every period of history! How about a brief overview?

The princess of Lagash,
circa 2120 BCE, discovered at Tello, 17 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © Louvre Museum, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Thierry Ollivier
The divine adoratrice Karomama,
between 945 and 715 BCE, bronze, 59 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © Louvre Museum, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Christian Décamps
Ariadne’s head,
6th century, marble, 26 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Tony Querrec
Frans Pourbus the Younger, Portrait of Marie de’ Medici, Queen of France,
1600–1625, oil on canvas, 307 x 186 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Michel Urtado

 

 

 

 

All of these powerful women have inspired numerous works of art, including music and films!

 

Here’s one of our favourite examples: Cleopatra! 

 

 

Here’s an excerpt from Cleopatra (1963), directed by Joseph L. Mankiewicz.

In a nutshell

Many princesses and queens have held the reins of government — while some have been forgotten, others have inspired popular culture.

1
Women and work
Figurine of a cook,
6th century BCE, discovered at Tanagra, terracotta, 9 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Hervé Lewandowski

 

Women twiddling their thumbs at home? The idea doesn’t seem absurd. In many societies women were placed under the protection of their husbands. It was therefore the husband who would work outside the home to feed the family.

 

In art, women are often depicted partaking in indoor activities.

 

But it is a clichéd view to infer that women didn’t work. 

 

 

Large trough carrier,
between 2000 and 1800 BCE, paint and stucco on wood, 108 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Hervé Lewandowski
The Limbourg brothers, The Very Rich Hours of the Duke of Berry, the month of June,
illumination on parchment, 22 x 14 cm, Condé Museum, Chantilly. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Chantilly estate)/René-Gabriel Ojeda
Louise Moillon, The Fruit and Vegetable Seller,
1630, oil on canvas, 120 x 163 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Mathieu Rabeau
Jean Siméon Chardin, The Provider,
1739, oil on canvas, 47 x 38 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/René-Gabriel Ojeda
In a nutshell

Despite the lack of representations, women have always worked, whether inside or outside the home.

In summary, you have discovered:

  • What is a deity?
  • Focus on the worship of Vesta and the vestal virgins
  • Seduction vs marital love
  • Isis, a popular deity
  • Representations of mother and child
  • The outliers…
To train

In Greek mythology, Vesta is the protector of…

You have to choose an answer

Amulets in honour of Isis particularly protect against…

You have to choose an answer

This figurine of a mother and child comes from…

You have to choose an answer

You have unlocked the next chapter in your course Women in Art in the Mediterranean.

CHAPTER 2

Clichés of femininity

continue
6
The outliers…
Eugène Delacroix, Furious Medea,
1862, oil on canvas, 120 x 84 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/René-Gabriel Ojeda

In contrast to all these virtuous mythological figures,  Medea embodies much darker aspects. This woman turned Machiavellian to get revenge on her unfaithful husband, even going as far as killing her own children.

 

The Greek playwright Euripides recounts this myth in his tragedy titled “Medea.” This story has indeed travelled widely, as it can be found, for example, in Egyptian papyri!

 

The figure of Medea has been revisited many times in literature and the arts, shedding light on the multiple facets of the character: sometimes a ruthless murderer, other times a wounded wife, and at times a learned woman and sorceress.

 

While women have been depicted extensively as mothers and wives, it’s now time to discover other representations and their clichés!

Didot papyrus,
circa 170 and 160 BCE, discovered at the Memphis Serapeum, Egypt, papyrus, 107 x 17 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © Louvre Museum, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Georges Poncet
In a nutshell

The mythological figure of Medea is that of a Machiavellian woman who went as far as killing her own children.

5
Representations of mother and child

 

 

Isis (her again!) has another hat that she’s not the only one to wear — that of the maternal figure.

 

Historically, women have frequently been associated with the portrayal of a maternal figure. This kind of image of mother and child transcends eras, geographical regions and religions.

 

Let’s take a look at some examples!

Figurine from Cyprus,
between 1400 and 1230 BCE, terracotta, 20 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Franck Raux
Figurine of Isis breastfeeding,
between 664 and 332 BCE, bronze, 30 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © Louvre Museum, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Georges Poncet
Vivarini Bartolomeo, The Virgin Breastfeeding the Child,
15th century, oil on wood, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Tony Querrec
Louise-Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun, Madame Vigée-Le Brun and her daughter, Jeanne-Lucie, known as Julie,
1789, oil on wood, 130 x 94 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Tony Querrec
In a nutshell

Representations of a maternal figure looking after her child have transcended geographical boundaries and eras.

4
Isis, a popular deity
Let’s take a closer look at the figure of Isis.

Venerated in ancient Egypt, she is (among other things!) the goddess of fertility.

 

Amulets in her honour were worn to protect pregnant women from the risk of miscarriage and death in childbirth. Pregnancy was, until recently, an extremely dangerous stage in a woman’s life so it was better to have the gods on your side!

Isis knot amulet,
between 332 and 365 BCE, discovered on the Elephantine islands, glass, approximately 2 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo: © 2007 Louvre Museum/Georges Poncet
Altar of Astragalus consecrated to Isis,
between the 1st and 3rd centuries CE, marble, 55 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © Louvre Museum, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Maurice and Pierre Chuzeville

This deity is so important that she can be found throughout the Mediterranean basin!

 

She can be recognised on this altar from ancient Rome by the musical instrument in her hand. It is a sistrum, used in Egypt during ceremonies in her honour.

In a nutshell

In antiquity, Isis, the Egyptian goddess of fertility, was revered as far away as Rome.

3
Seduction vs marital love

 

 

Although out of reach for vestal virgins, love gives many deities their purpose! But it doesn’t mean the same thing to all of them…

 

Discover this example featuring two myths about Ishtar & Isis!

 

 

Plaque of the goddess Ishtar on a lion holding her weapon,
2nd millennium BCE, discovered at Tello, terracotta, 12 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (Louvre Museum)/Franck Raux
Figurine of Isis,
between 664 and 332 BCE, discovered at Memphis, soapstone, 11 cm, Louvre Museum, Paris. Photo © Louvre Museum, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Christian Décamps
Comparer
Votive plaque of Gilgamesh fighting the bull

Ishtar: the goddess of sexual love, she had multiple amorous conquests. When she attempted to seduce Gilgamesh, he resisted her charms. This rejection sent her into a blind fury. She sends a furious bull against him, and her vengeance then falls upon thousands of innocents.

Papyrus of the Lamentations of Isis and Nephthys

Isis: the goddess of marital love. Her husband Osiris was killed and cut into pieces by his own brother, who scattered them around the world. Isis then left to find them and managed to put her husband’s body back together. It was then wrapped in a shroud, like a mummy. What a devoted wife! Isis is depicted here as she safeguards Osiris, who is wrapped in a shroud.

In a nutshell

The deities associated with love can represent sexual love, like Ishtar, or marital love, like Isis.